Weep Holes

Weep holes are those two little slots at the bottoms of your vinyl windows. When the rain beats against your window pain and you think of summer days again, these little weep holes play an important role. They allow the water that runs down your window pain to drain to the outside of your house rather than build up in the window and seep water onto your window sill.

It is important that you keep these little weep holes free from debris, and certainly don't block them with caulking and paint. It could make the difference of you sill rotting out, your drywall being damaged, your insulation saturated, your carpet getting wet, or your hardwood floor being ruined.

There are times after a driving rain against the window that the weep holes may not be able to handle all of the moisture and your sill and floor may be wet. If this happens you may want to test your window using a garden hose. Sometimes a window just has to be replaced. Don't worry, windows aren't that expensive. But do yourself a favor and hire a professional who will replace your window and exterior trims, caulk them, and paint them. It's worth the extra cash you will put out.

Want a Great Lawn

Many think that having a great lawn is a lot of work. Not true! Of course, that depends on how they define work. Here are some keys to having a great lawn.

1. In early spring apply a fertilizer with Halts in it. this will fertilize your lawn while preventing crab grass growth.

2. In early spring top your lawn (cut short dead growth) and rake up as much death grass as possible (this is the hardest part).

3. In early spring apply granulated or liquid Revive, which is a surfactant which allows the water to penetrate and green up your lawn.

4. Start watering your lawn if you live in a dry area such as Colorado. Folks, grass does not grow without water.

5. Fertilize about every three to four weeks.

6. Mow regularly, and don't mow too short!

7. When you mow, bag the clippings. Too much thatch smothers the lawn.

8. Apply weed and feed when necessary.

9. Apply and insecticide when necessary. (I only use spot weed killers)

10. Edge around your sidewalks.

Do you think this is a lot of work? It take me an average of 30 minutes a week to care for my lawn, and it looks great. Yes, I have a front yard and a back yard. The first yard cleanup in the spring takes the longest. After that, it's a breeze.

Oh, and notice I did not suggest aeration. I have never aerated and my lawn is the best in the subdivision.

Now, make a pot of coffee and sit on your deck or your porch and enjoy your yard.

Rehab Your Deck

Today, with the tightness of money I am receiving a lot of requests to rehab old decks. In most cases this can be done successfully and it can save you hundreds, to thousands of dollars. It can also save you the price of a building permit because your current deck is most likely grandfathered in.

Joists, posts, floorboards, railings can all be repaired. Your deck can be sanded, power washed and stained and look quite nice and be structurally sound.

Many times my clients have thought that their deck was totally shot because of loose fitting parts, graying wood, and a few rotted components. Upon hear the price of replacing their deck there is often sticker shock. But when they realize they can repair their old deck for about a third of the price or less they usually go for it.

All that cash they save can buy a lot of Starbucks!

Grout Chipping Out?

Is the grout cracking and chipping out on your bathroom or kitchen floor. There are two basic causes for this. One is easy and inexpensive to repair and the other is not.

The one reason, and most common, is that the installer watered the grout down too much. He must have thought that it was easier to apply, which it was. But it made for weal grout and now it is cracking and chipping out and you have gaps in your tile floor. This is an easy fix. Go to the tile store and get a diamond shaped grout remover. Also, get a linoleum knife. The linoleum knife is used to chip out the deep grout and the grout remover will clean up the edges.

Once the grout is removed, mix and install new grout. Closely follow the instructions on the package. You just repaired your own grout for very few dollars.

If your grout is cracking and chipping out for the other reason, you will have to remove your tile and retile. This time make sure there is quarter inch thick cement fiber backer board laid under your tile. You might want to call a professional.

Happy tiling!

Repair Your Butcher Block

Do you have one of those large butcher blocks that is about two inches thick? To prevent warpage these are always made of laminated strips of wood that often delaminate over time and with use. Dry climates are especially hard on these. If yours is broken, don't throw it away, repair it. It is quick and easy.

Tools and materials you will need are: 2 medium duty bar clamps, 2 slats of wood the same length or a little longer than your butcher block, wood glue, and a sanding block (or vibrating sander.

1) Match up the pieces of your butcher block.

2) Lay it on a large flat surface.

3) Apply wood glue to one side of the break and spread evenly.

4) Set the broken surfaces together and make sure that the top side is flush.

5) Place the slats of wood at opposite outer edge surfaces.

6) Set the bar clamps, evenly applying pressure until the gap between broken surfaces is gone

7) Wipe off the excess glue and allow to dry overnight

8) Remove the clamps and sand top and bottom surfaces.

9) The entire process should take no more than one hour of work time.

10) Now, keep it oiled so it doesn't dry out and crack.

Oh, and one more thing..... go buy yourself a cup of coffee with the money you saved.

Painting Tips

Painting can either be easy or hard! It's really up to you. It can take you a long time to paint a room or a small amount of time. That, also, is up to you.

1) Cutting the inside corners. Cutting the corner up against another color or at the ceiling can be challenging, especially if your walls are textured. It can be really difficult to get that nice clean and straight transitional cut..... or, it can be easy. Here's what you do: Use painter's blue tape and run it with one edge exactly on the corner. Next, take white painter caulking (the cheapest kind) and run a very fine bead exactly in the corner and smooth it out with you finger. Now cut in your paint along that edge painting over the edge of the tape as well. Before paint dries, pull the tape. Wallah! you have a sharp cut in edge.

2) Don't use cheap paint. But also don't use expensive paint. Use a good premium paint like Valspar, or Behr. But if you are using Behr, don't fall for that expensive stuff with the primer already in it.... you are wasting your money. Their regular paint actually paints up better.

3) Don't try to stretch the paint by using a dry roller. A roller with plenty of paint on it and applied liberally ensures better coverage, a more even paint job, and in the end may take less time and paint. If you use too little paint on your roller I can guarantee a lot of breakthrough.

4) Use a quality roller such as those expensive white ones at Home Depot. They leave less lint on your wall.

5) Use a quality brush and the right brush for the job. The 1.5" and 2" angle brushes work well. I have found nothing that compares to Purdy.

6) Clean up: Purdy brushes are worth saving. Spray a little orange oil on them and let them sit for a few minutes. Now they will easily clean under luke warm water. The roller covers? Throw them. They are actually pretty cheap and a new roller cover will do a better job on your next painting project.

Insulate

Recently I made our ice cold garage a little warmer. Actually it stays above freezing now. What did I do? I insulated.

First, I insulated the metal garage door by stuffing the panels with glass insulation then covering that with a moisture resistant plywood about three-sixteenths of an inch thick. It was actually underlayment for vinyl floors. You can buy it at Home Depot. This was installed with sheet metal screws. Then I adjusted the door opener for more weight.

Then I insulated the garage attic with R-19 unfaced glass insulation which I bought at Home Depot for 22 cents per square foot. I sealed off the ends of the cells between ceiling joists by placing insulation between the joists. After that I laid the insulation across the joists butting it firmly batten to batten. The result was a much warmer garage.

The total cost for materials was $190. Now my garage will serve as a warm shop in the winter and will be much cooler in the summer. I'd say this is a good investment.